How to make a Jayne Cobb Inspired Beanie on a round loom

This is a Jayne Cobb Inspired Pattern
You’ll need:
Pattern: http://www.americanknitter.com/?page_…
41 Peg Round Loom
Colors: Reddish Orange, Orange, Golden Yellow or Mustard

Steps:
Earflaps
– Slip Knot on Peg 7
Wrap 7 pegs for 28 Rows
Do the same on the opposite side
Change colors to the orange start on peg 6 and increase every wrap back and forth
Once you have only 2 pegs with no yarn secure the brim
Add 12 more rows on the loom
Change to golden yellow color and add 22 rows
Remove the hat with a yarn needle
Create the pom pom
Secure loose ends
Create the tie tassels
Show off your beanie!

Peppermint Twist Beanie Hat Pattern on a Round Loom

Here’s a link to the free pattern: http://www.americanknitter.com/?page_…

Today we’ll be making this fun peppermint twist beanie hat. There is a free downloadable pattern available at AmericanKnitter.com. This beanie has a small brim of just 21 rows and 30 rows for the rest of the hat. While this pattern isn’t all that difficult to figure out once you get the hang of it, you can easily get your yarn colors twisted up, so just take your time and be methodical about it. You’ll need red and white yarn, we’ll be using a 36 peg knifty knitter loom, let’s get to it!

As always we’ll be starting off with a slip knot on the first peg. We’ll be wrapping 3 pegs and skipping three pegs with the red yarn for three rows. Now we’ll add the white yarn, by tying a slip knot, wrapping and skipping three pegs for 3 rows. Now it’s time to pick. Once we’ve picked we’re ready to shift the stripe pattern over one peg, so we’ll actually start wrapping the red yarn one peg over to give it the twirl effect. To do this we’ll start this next set of 3 rows on peg number 2, wrapping 3 pegs and skipping three pegs, then doing the same with the white yarn, wrapping three, skipping three. Then with the one new row on we pick. Then we’ll wrap 2 more rows before we shift over. So basically every three rows of yarn that we pick we shift over one peg. Continue this for 21 rows and we’ll be ready to secure the brim of the hat.

While you’re wrapping it can be difficult to remember what row you’re on, and when it’s time to shift the pattern over by one peg. So hopefully I can give you a little help. If the inside of the pegs look like this, with the first and the last of the 3 pegs have alternating colors on them like this, then you know you’re on your first row for that set of three rows. If instead the rows look like this, with the first and second pegs having 2 rows of the same color but the third a different, then you know you’re on the second row, and if the back of the pegs look like this, with all three pegs having all the same color, that mean’s you’ve picked your third row and are ready to shift over a peg. This will come in handy if you have to stop in the middle of your project and can’t figure out where you left off. Figure out what row you’re on, just count the number of yarn strands there are all the way up the loom. Hopefully that will help you stay on track.

Once you’ve wrapped and picked 20 rows you’re ready to form the brim of the hat. Unlike making the brim of a normal beanie where you bring the loop from the same peg back up and over you’ll be bringing the closest color loop that matches where you are on the pattern. This keeps the spiral twist design in the beanie.

With the first row looped back onto the pegs, pick each peg securing the brim. Now continue the red and white pattern for another 30 rows and we’ll be ready to finish the hat.

Now that you have completed 30 rows pick off all but one row from the pegs. Cut the yarn leaving a length of about 18 inches. I like to use a piece of paper to thread the yarn strands through the eye of the needle.

With the yarn secured to the needle loop the remaining row of yarn off each peg and onto the yarn needle. Pull it tight so it bunches together. To secure the stitches weave the yarn through the top stitches of the beanie. Cut the yarn off the needle and tie it off.

Congratulations! You’ve completed an awesome Peppermint Twist Beanie Hat. Our next project will be a dragon hand puppet. If you enjoy these videos please use the like button as well as share these video links on Facebook pintrest or whatever sites you use, it will really help us to be able keep creating more videos for you. And if you haven’t already, click subscribe so you can know when the next videos are available.

Easter Basket pattern on a Round Loom

Here’s the downloadable pattern: http://www.americanknitter.com/?page_…

You’ll Need:
– Pink Yarn
– White Yarn
– 31 Peg Loom
– Spool Loom
– Pick Tool
– Yarn Needle
– Scissors
Basic Steps:
Step 1: Weave the Base of the bag (See video instructions)
Step 2: Wrap & pick (pattern above) 56 rows on a 31 peg loom.
Step 3: Create a 15″ handle with a spool loom
Step 4 Attach the handle to the bag (see video instructions)
Step 5 Secure the inside of the bag to the base.
Step 6: Enjoy your new Easter Basket!




You can use these principles to make any kind of bag or basket of any size.

To start we’ll be tying a slip knot and tightening it to the first peg.  Then we are going to wrap the peg on the opposite side of the loom going all the way from peg to peg until every peg is wrapped and you are back at the start.
Now we’ll thread a yarn needle with a very… long double strand of yarn.  And starting in the center we’ll be weaving over and under each set of strands around and around and around…  I’ve found that it helps to weave from the outside part rather than closer to the center and then just pulling it tight after each section.  It’s also easier not to weave all the way around the loom, but to weave about ¼ of the loom and then pull the rest of the yarn through.  Chances are you aren’t going to have enough yarn on your needle to finish the job, so in this case I’m going to change the color just for fun,  You can keep the same color, or you can mix it up, whatever you want.  But to add more yarn just cut it off thread more on the needle and tie it back on and keep on weaving.  Again.  I ran out of yarn so I’m changing the color back to the pink.  Keep weaving until your piece looks like this.  You’ll want to get as close to the pegs as possible and don’t weave loosely, the tighter the better.  It doesn’t have to be tense, but you shouldn’t be able to easily put your finger or anything between the strands of yarn.
With the base of the basket out of the way it’s time to work on the sides.  Cut off the yarn from the needle and tie it to a new piece of yarn.  Wrap each peg n a counter clockwise direction, as you work in a clockwise direction around the loom.  Once you have 3 rows of yarn on each peg, then use the pick tool and pull the bottom row up and over the peg. You should have 2 rows on each peg.  Wrap another row of yarn onto the pegs so you once again have three rows and pick off the bottom row as you did before.  Continue wrapping and picking until you’ve added 9 rows to the loom and we’ll change colors.
To change colors we’ll simply cut the yarn and tie on the new color.
For this pattern we’ll be doing 14 rows of the new color.
Once you’ve added the 14 rows of the white we’ll go back to the pink yarn.  We’ll be adding 36 rows of pink.
After you’ve added the 36 rows of pink we’re ready to take the basket off the loom.
Pick off all but one row from the loom.
Then leave a length of about 30 inches and thread it onto a yarn needle.
Loop each strand of yarn off the pegs and onto the yarn needle.
Set that aside and we’re now ready to work on the handle.
To make the handle you’ll need a spool loom or you can use an automatic spool loom called embellish knit.
To make the handle on the spool loom we’ll be using the small 5 peg side.  we’ll wrap it with 3 rows and then pick just like you would with a normal loom.  We’ll create a length of about 15 inches. and then tie off.
To attach the handle we’ll fold the sides of the basket in on itself.
To use a embellish knit, and if you want to get one I’ll put a link in the description below.  But to use the embellish knit you feed the yarn through the guide and down the center hole, on the other side you’ll clip the weight, this part is necessary for the yarn to feed properly through.
Then you turn the handle allowing the first hook to grab the yarn, then you lift the yarn behind the second needle and allow it to be hooked onto the 3rd hook.
The latch on each hook always needs to be in the open or down position at this point, so if it’s not, you’ll have to open it, but once you get it going it should be automatic.
Then skip the fourth hook and allow the first hook to catch the loop again.
From this point continue turning the handle allowing the yarn to catch on every hook.
Getting this going is a little tricky, not difficult, it just takes some patience.  You may need to tug slightly on the yarn that is coming out from underneath just slightly as you turn the handle, you want to make sure that as the hook raises to grab another loop of yarn that the previous loop slides off the peg.  If you have a heavy weight yarn this won’t work very well or at all.  But with lighter weight yarns you can really get this thing going pretty fast, you just have to make sure the hook lets go of the loop before it grabs another one.  You may have to give it a tug once in a while so it doesn’t bunch up at the top of the tube.  The only other thing you want to make sure is that there is no tension on the yarn that is being fed into the loom and that the weight is hanging freely so it can feed the yarn down the tube.  Once you’re done you just cut the yarn and let it finish weaving the handle.  Then take a yarn needle and secure each loop so it doesn’t come untangled just like you would on the normal spool loom.
Now it’s time to attach the handle to the basket.
Fold the inside wall of the basket in so it aligns with the first row of yarn that we connected to the woven base.
Then we are going to feed the ends handle into the top of the basket in between the stitches on opposite sides, push it down about ½ inch. on both sides.
Turn the basket inside out and with a threaded yarn needle attach the handle to the basket.  do this to both sides.
With the handles attached we’re now ready to attach the inside wall to the woven base of the basket.
Using the 30” length of yarn that is still attached to the basket whip stitch all the way around the basket joining the two pieces together.
Once that’s done, look the basket over for any knots, you can usually turn them inside where it will be less noticeable.
And that’s it!  Congratulations!

How to knit a beanie hat: American Flag Pattern


A printable pattern for this hat is available in the download section of American Knitter.com
Free Pattern: http://www.americanknitter.com/?page_id=43

I’m going to be using standard 4 ply yarn and the knifty knitter brand 36 peg loom, so this will be a hat for a child, but variations in size are also available on the website.

First we are going to work on the band or brim of the cap.

We’ll start with Red Yarn and the first thing you’ll want to do is tie a slip knot, and to do that you wrap the yarn around two of your fingers and bring the long end of the yarn through the loop and pull it tight.

Place the loop of the slipknot on the first peg of your loom and cinch it, but it doesn’t need to be super tight.

Now we’ll be winding the yarn around each peg counter clockwise as we move clockwise around the loom. We’ll also be skipping two pegs so that we can alternate colors, so wrap two pegs and skip two pegs, wrap two pegs skip two pegs all the way around the loom and then we’ll tie off the red yarn around the side peg and start on the white yarn. Skip two pegs and wrap two pegs, all the way around the loom and then tie it off.

Once we have 3 rows of yarn on each peg we’ll pull the bottom row over the top of the peg and then wrap another row, alternating colors all the way around the loom. We then repeat the picking process, pulling the bottom row over the top of the peg. We’ll continue this process until we’ve wrapped and picked 34 rows and we’ll be ready for the next step.

Ok, so we have 34 rows, and we picked the 34th row so we have 2 rows left on the pegs and as you can see we have some really cool looking stripes. We’re ready to finish the brim of the hat. To do this we pull the loops from the first rows that we picked back over the pegs, now you want to make sure that you are aligned properly or it will give your hat a slightly twisted look. Once you have them all looped back onto the pegs we’ll pick off the bottom row just like we’ve been doing after wrapping. This process secures the brim of the hat. Once you do that we’re ready to work on the next section of the hat.

Now we’re going to change colors, to do this it’s actually quite simple, we’re going to leave a piece of yarn long enough on both the red and the white to tie the blue yarn to. once we do that we’re going to wrap and pick 6 rows of solid blue yarn. Go ahead and do that and we’ll be ready to start on the stars.

It’s starting to take shape and now we’re ready for the stars, so what we’re going to do is offset the stars from the stripes so they don’t line up perfectly, it’ll just make it look a little more stylish.

So to reintroduce the white just tie a slipknot back on but instead of the peg we started on for the white stripes we’re going back one so it’s offset. Now we’re going to alternate wrapping 2 pegs white, 2 pegs blue. We’ll wrap and pick for four rows and that will give us our first set of stars.

Ok, now that we have our first row of stars, we’re going to add a solid band of blue for 3 rows, so wrap and pick just your color blue for 3 rows and we’ll leave the white on the loom, we’ll just make sure that the yarn stays on the inside of the loom while we wrap the blue, otherwise we’ll have a white thread running across the front of our beanie and, well we don’t want that now do we? …No we don’t.

Ok 3 rows of blue and we’re ready for our next set of stars, we’re going to offset these stars from the initial set of stars as well and so we’ll just start wrapping one peg over from where we initially wrapped the first set of stars. We’ll wrap and pick for 4 more rows.

Now that we have our second row of stars we’ll separate them again with 3 rows of solid blue. Then we’ll be ready to do the final set of stars.

Alright, the last set of stars… We’re going to begin these on the same peg as the first row of stars, alternating blue and white every two pegs for four rows then we’ll be ready to finish the beanie.

Your hat is looking really cool by now and we’re almost done. We just need to wrap and pick 5 more rows of solid blue then we’ll be ready to take the hat off the loom.

To finish the hat pick all the rows off your pegs so you only have one row left on the loom. Then cut the blue yarn with a couple feet of thread left hanging. Thread a Yarn needle onto the blue yarn and begin threading the yarn from each peg onto the needle, going around until all of the loops are on the thread. Pull the yarn tight, closing the hole through the inside of the beanie. Then work the needle through several stitches and then cut and tie it off. Congratulations! You’re now ready for a cold 4th of July evening, Election Day or any other patriotic event! Thanks for watching. I really hope you’ve enjoyed and found our videos helpful. We’d love to hear from you, please rate and comment. Subscribe for more videos like this and share your projects and successes with us on our Facebook page. Until next time!

How to Quilt for beginners

Go to the downloads section for the printed plans.
http://www.americanknitter.com/?page_id=43

Welcome! These directions are divided into steps, which coincide with the steps of the video. To achieve the best results, watch the video and read the instructions completely before trying any of the steps. While watching, take notes and keep them handy while you are working. Take your time, plan your steps and most of all have fun!

Cutting & Pinning
Cut out the batting, flannel and fabric to the desired quilt size, using the chart if needed. All three layers will have the same dimensions.
Lay the batting down, bonded side face down. The bonded side is the side with the subtle stripes. Note: not all batting is bonded. Un-bonded batting will cause your quilt to become ‘lumpy’.
Lay the flannel on the batting. The side of the flannel that you want exposed is also called the “right” side. Lay the “right” side of the flannel face up on the batting.
Lay the fabric on the flannel. The fabric needs to be placed with the “right” side face down. Or ‘right sides’ together. You will eventually turn the quilt inside out, like a pillowcase. Thus exposing the correct or “right” sides of your fabric and flannel.
Pin the batting, flannel and fabric together with quilting pins. About 1” from the edge and about 5” apart. Pin all around the quilt leaving an opening in the middle on one side of the quilt. The size of the opening depends on the size of your quilt and the thickness of your batting. A 12” opening is for sizes ‘Twin’ or smaller. For quilts ‘Full’ size and larger use at least a 24” opening.

Sewing the Edges
Sew around the entire quilt starting from one end of the opening to the other.
Flip the quilt inside out like a pillowcase exposing the “right” sides of the fabric and the flannel. Use blunt nose scissors to push out the corners if needed.
Shake the quilt to even it out.
Pull and crease the edges of the quilt using the edge of a table. Using an iron may help.
Pin the quilt again. This time there is no opening you need to plan for, so pin the entire quilt along the edge. Fold the edges of the opening inside.
On a sewing machine, stitch all the way around the quilt about 1/4” from the edge.
Make a second stitch along the entire edge of the quilt, but this time about 1” from the edge.

Attaching the Quilt to the Frame
With a staple gun, staple the center of one side of your quilt to the center of the framing board. Then secure the corners to the framing boards with clamps.
Do the same on the opposite side of the quilt.
Secure the entire quilt to the 4 framing boards with staples, about 6” apart.
The quilt should be stretched tight.
If you prefer, many people use ‘quilting tacks’ instead of staples.

Tying
Thread your needles. You may want to thread several at a time. Use a length of thread that is comfortable to you, but 36” is a good length to start.
Plan where your ties will go. Use a template if needed or you can use a yardstick. If you want to mark where to put the ties, use a washable marker.
Long yarn is intended for “running stitches” which means that the ties are all connected until you cut them.
Pull the needle and yarn all the way through the 3 layers and back up through 3 layers. Then tie a square knot. Refer to the diagram or video to learn how to tie this knot. This may seem complicated, but it is fairly easy to get the hang of.
Continue to tie your quilt until you are finished.
Cut the yarn between the ties to separate them. Then cut each tie to the desired length.
Detach the quilt from the frame by removing the clamps and the staples. Run your fingers along the underside of the quilt between the wood frame and the frame fabric to pop the staples out. If you have difficulty removing some staples, use needle nose pliers.
Your quilt is now finished. Congratulations!

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